Today was a very productive day.
I started by cutting out my real pattern pieces today.
Initially I cut out my cotton poplin and my lining fabric. I then cut out all my grey fabric, aside from the trousers and their waistband as I am still a bit unsure as to whether they are up to standard.
I also had a tutorial today during which she signed off all my toiles and I am therefore ready to begin making my actual garments.
As a result of this, I ordered my fabric prints, which are going to cost me £650, which is very expensive but it will be worth it due to time constraints and quality issues.
However having sent all this off this evening, I recieved a cheaper quote from another company so am awaiting the complete quote with an intention to cancel the order I placed and redirect it to the cheaper company. But this is yet to be decided.
Monday, March 29, 2010
Sunday, March 28, 2010
W/c Sunday 28th March
Sunday 28th March:
After booking in for my printing at the university printer, I realised that due to the date I was able to book for meant that I had 9days to make the whole collection due to the fact there is only one day a week available and on those days there is only 8meters available to be printed. And due to the fact that this is the only printer of this nature available to all studeents in the university, I began to look to outsource.
The only issue with outsourcing is that the cost increases greatly but the outcome and time factors prove that this is the best decision.
Today I worked on laying out my print for sending off tomorrow. I initially put together a layout on an A4 sheet and then I multiplied this and laid it into a half drop pattern on the size document I need to send direct the the printers which I intend to do tomorrow.
I also worked on the line up for the collection, including the extra two outfits today.
After booking in for my printing at the university printer, I realised that due to the date I was able to book for meant that I had 9days to make the whole collection due to the fact there is only one day a week available and on those days there is only 8meters available to be printed. And due to the fact that this is the only printer of this nature available to all studeents in the university, I began to look to outsource.
The only issue with outsourcing is that the cost increases greatly but the outcome and time factors prove that this is the best decision.
Today I worked on laying out my print for sending off tomorrow. I initially put together a layout on an A4 sheet and then I multiplied this and laid it into a half drop pattern on the size document I need to send direct the the printers which I intend to do tomorrow.
I also worked on the line up for the collection, including the extra two outfits today.
W/c Sunday 21st March
Very long and productive week this week.
Monday 22nd March:
I spent the day discussing with the tutors the final design features of the collection. I worked on the collar and the hood on outfit 3.
The collar shape is very simple and through measuring the neck line I was able to draft the initial shape and after testing this toile, I added on the v-shape to ensure that it would attach properly to the v-neckline on the shirt. I redrafted this accordingly and make the collar, ready to insert it.
I then began drafting the hood. I chose to only attach the collar around the back, upto the side seams as it would have become too bulky around the neckline with the hood and the collar if a full hood. The inital hood I made, was too shallow so I added on extra depth and redrafting. From this I shaped the hood to fit with the design lines. I then inserted the hood, then the collar then the facing to add a neatness to the finished garment.
After this I spent some time working with my tutor to figure out the best way to insert my panel in the back of the playsuit on outfit 2.
Tuesday 23rd & Wesnesday 24th March:
Working towards getting all my toiles at a complete point so that I could take them to my tutorial to get approval for the next steps.
Wednesday 24th March:
I spent time working with the knit technician today to work out the number of rows and needles needed to make the cuffs for the trousers on outfit 3.
I arranged a tutorial to ensure that all my toiles where up to scratch before my final toile critique on Monday.
There were simply a few minor adjustments which needed making, including facings and not using a waist band on my trousers.
Thursday 25th March:
I worked on all the amendments as specificed by my tutors to get everything ready for Monday's toile critique. I managed to get all the amendments made.
Friday 26th March:
I worked to ensure that all my patterns and draft patterns are ready to lay plan and ultimately to cut out the pieces ready for manufacture. I also completed the patterns for the extra two outfits and made toiles for the coat for outfit 5 and the shorts for outft 6 to ensure the patterns worked correctly.
Saturday 27th March:
I spent all day planning my patterns ready for my real fabric. I also worked out how much of each real fabric I require.
Monday 22nd March:
I spent the day discussing with the tutors the final design features of the collection. I worked on the collar and the hood on outfit 3.
The collar shape is very simple and through measuring the neck line I was able to draft the initial shape and after testing this toile, I added on the v-shape to ensure that it would attach properly to the v-neckline on the shirt. I redrafted this accordingly and make the collar, ready to insert it.
I then began drafting the hood. I chose to only attach the collar around the back, upto the side seams as it would have become too bulky around the neckline with the hood and the collar if a full hood. The inital hood I made, was too shallow so I added on extra depth and redrafting. From this I shaped the hood to fit with the design lines. I then inserted the hood, then the collar then the facing to add a neatness to the finished garment.
After this I spent some time working with my tutor to figure out the best way to insert my panel in the back of the playsuit on outfit 2.
Tuesday 23rd & Wesnesday 24th March:
Working towards getting all my toiles at a complete point so that I could take them to my tutorial to get approval for the next steps.
Wednesday 24th March:
I spent time working with the knit technician today to work out the number of rows and needles needed to make the cuffs for the trousers on outfit 3.
I arranged a tutorial to ensure that all my toiles where up to scratch before my final toile critique on Monday.
There were simply a few minor adjustments which needed making, including facings and not using a waist band on my trousers.
Thursday 25th March:
I worked on all the amendments as specificed by my tutors to get everything ready for Monday's toile critique. I managed to get all the amendments made.
Friday 26th March:
I worked to ensure that all my patterns and draft patterns are ready to lay plan and ultimately to cut out the pieces ready for manufacture. I also completed the patterns for the extra two outfits and made toiles for the coat for outfit 5 and the shorts for outft 6 to ensure the patterns worked correctly.
Saturday 27th March:
I spent all day planning my patterns ready for my real fabric. I also worked out how much of each real fabric I require.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Saturday 20th March
Today I made a couple of decisions with regard to my designs.
Outfit 3 -
Shirt: I decided that I would remove the back insert on the shirt as I think it will be too fussy and bulky with respect to the hood and collar. As a result I retraced my draft and remade the shirt, complete with facing to test the fit and in preparation for working on the collar and hood next week.
Trousers: Through adding in the pleats for a more aesthetically pleasing front I have formed a problem with regard to the pocket as this will now not work in the place I initially chose. I am still debating whether to simply move the pocket or to make it into more of a swag style pocket, in line with the other garments. This is something I will need to consider and possibly discuss with my tutor. Also from my first toile and previous issues, I have lengthened the leg to ensure enough length for the models.
Outfit 4 - T-shirt: following careful consideration I have realised that a t-shirt does not fit in very well with the collection as it seems a bit random and not really in line the intended product. Therefore I have decided that a fairly standard and simple, collarless white shirt with printed sleeves woule be more appropriate. So I toiled this today.
I worked on my shirt bodices and sleeves today so that they are ready to work on them early next week to get everything ready for final toile critique.
Following this I worked on my trousers which is when I made the decision to add inserts, rather than the pocket.
Outfit 3 -
Shirt: I decided that I would remove the back insert on the shirt as I think it will be too fussy and bulky with respect to the hood and collar. As a result I retraced my draft and remade the shirt, complete with facing to test the fit and in preparation for working on the collar and hood next week.
Trousers: Through adding in the pleats for a more aesthetically pleasing front I have formed a problem with regard to the pocket as this will now not work in the place I initially chose. I am still debating whether to simply move the pocket or to make it into more of a swag style pocket, in line with the other garments. This is something I will need to consider and possibly discuss with my tutor. Also from my first toile and previous issues, I have lengthened the leg to ensure enough length for the models.
Outfit 4 - T-shirt: following careful consideration I have realised that a t-shirt does not fit in very well with the collection as it seems a bit random and not really in line the intended product. Therefore I have decided that a fairly standard and simple, collarless white shirt with printed sleeves woule be more appropriate. So I toiled this today.
I worked on my shirt bodices and sleeves today so that they are ready to work on them early next week to get everything ready for final toile critique.
Following this I worked on my trousers which is when I made the decision to add inserts, rather than the pocket.
Thursday 18th March
This evening was the second toile critique so I spent a bit of time this morning getting all my files in order, checking what needed to be done on each garment and generally organising my self.
Following this I was working on my shirt dress of outfit one, ensuring that the collar was up to scratch. during this I made a couple of mistakes but luckily they were easy to rectify.
one issues I had was the the back section of the collar was a little too large compared to the collar stand but I worked this in and changed it on my draft to ensure that next time I made it it would be more accurate.
I also discovered that the front two sections of the collar were too long and therefore I was unable to attach the bodice to the facing. I removed the excess and re-sewed the collar back together followed by sewing in the lining.
I then updated all my drafts.
I also worked on the leggings for outfit one. Following manufacturing the garment I made the decision to remove the side seam of the leggings because this will reduce the chance of mis-matching through the print.
Following removing this side seam, I re-made the garment and added a waist band. During the fit for this, I decided that they did not need to be at the waist so took them down to the hips and they were also too long so I reduced the length. Due to a lack of knowledge I made the waistband incorrectly so this is first job for next week.
The toile critique went well, with positive feedback from my tutor and a deadline set for me to attempt to complete all my toiles by the end of next week, which through careful planning, should be feesible.
Today I met my first year helper. Each third year is assigned a first year student to assist with any work they desire. I met my assistant and briefed her on whatI want her to do. Her roles included working drawings and production sketches, created on Illustrator and a personal design project based around bags.
Following this I was working on my shirt dress of outfit one, ensuring that the collar was up to scratch. during this I made a couple of mistakes but luckily they were easy to rectify.
one issues I had was the the back section of the collar was a little too large compared to the collar stand but I worked this in and changed it on my draft to ensure that next time I made it it would be more accurate.
I also discovered that the front two sections of the collar were too long and therefore I was unable to attach the bodice to the facing. I removed the excess and re-sewed the collar back together followed by sewing in the lining.
I then updated all my drafts.
I also worked on the leggings for outfit one. Following manufacturing the garment I made the decision to remove the side seam of the leggings because this will reduce the chance of mis-matching through the print.
Following removing this side seam, I re-made the garment and added a waist band. During the fit for this, I decided that they did not need to be at the waist so took them down to the hips and they were also too long so I reduced the length. Due to a lack of knowledge I made the waistband incorrectly so this is first job for next week.
The toile critique went well, with positive feedback from my tutor and a deadline set for me to attempt to complete all my toiles by the end of next week, which through careful planning, should be feesible.
Today I met my first year helper. Each third year is assigned a first year student to assist with any work they desire. I met my assistant and briefed her on whatI want her to do. Her roles included working drawings and production sketches, created on Illustrator and a personal design project based around bags.
Monday 15th March
Today I completed the Alternative Fashion Week outfit.
The fabric choices where made for us and I am not happy with the result as due to the nature of the fabric, manufacture was very difficult as the fabric moves a lot, even when pinned properly in place. However, my tutors are happy with the result and it will be on the catwalk in London next month. It will be accessorised with grey knee socks and white pumps.
The fabric choices where made for us and I am not happy with the result as due to the nature of the fabric, manufacture was very difficult as the fabric moves a lot, even when pinned properly in place. However, my tutors are happy with the result and it will be on the catwalk in London next month. It will be accessorised with grey knee socks and white pumps.
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Thursday 10th March
I focused on making that AFW garments today and managed to get about three quarters of the way through both of them.
I also recieved a selection of graffiti illustrations from my artist to pick from so I sifted through those and requested he send me fine linered outlines for me to manipulate and test colours with.
Due to having changed my stirruped trousers to leggings I have begun considering how to go about matching colour printed with transfer printing and digital printing so have a meeting on Monday to discuss with this with the print technician.
I also recieved a selection of graffiti illustrations from my artist to pick from so I sifted through those and requested he send me fine linered outlines for me to manipulate and test colours with.
Due to having changed my stirruped trousers to leggings I have begun considering how to go about matching colour printed with transfer printing and digital printing so have a meeting on Monday to discuss with this with the print technician.
Tuesday 9th March
My first job this evening was to correct the skirt 'swag' pattern. Which I did by adding on the 2cm it was out by the first time around. The second toile was successful.
This evening I also cut out all my fabric for the Alternative Fashion Week garments.
This evening I also cut out all my fabric for the Alternative Fashion Week garments.
Saturday, March 13, 2010
Monday 8th March
Today I worked on my skirt for outfit four.
After my last toile, there was something off about the back measurements so I re-checked all the measurements and discovered that a couple of them were slighty out so I amended the pattern and remade the garment. This time it was fully successful but upon the fit, I realised there was a need for some kind of slit the ensure that the model could walk properly so I added in a vent.
After this, I began working on my swag for the back section of the skirt. I managed to get the right amount of drape on it but it was about 2cm too thin.
Following the submission of the toiles for the critique assessment evening, my garments were selected to go on the alterntive fashion week catwalk in London.
http://www.lth-hotels.com/london_events/alternative_fashion_week.htm
So today we were also assigned the fabric for this. The fabrics are a collection of grey/silver tones.
After my last toile, there was something off about the back measurements so I re-checked all the measurements and discovered that a couple of them were slighty out so I amended the pattern and remade the garment. This time it was fully successful but upon the fit, I realised there was a need for some kind of slit the ensure that the model could walk properly so I added in a vent.
After this, I began working on my swag for the back section of the skirt. I managed to get the right amount of drape on it but it was about 2cm too thin.
Following the submission of the toiles for the critique assessment evening, my garments were selected to go on the alterntive fashion week catwalk in London.
http://www.lth-hotels.com/london_events/alternative_fashion_week.htm
So today we were also assigned the fabric for this. The fabrics are a collection of grey/silver tones.
Saturday 6th March
Today I set about fixing the playsuit toile. Initially I tried it on the 'leg mannequin' which it fit perfectly, highlighting the sizing issue with the mannequins being outdated size wise.
From this, I amended the pattern by adding 1cm either side from the hip line and re-shaping the seam. I then made a toile of the lower half (effectively the lining) to see what the fit was like. This fit was much better.
From this fit, I made the rest of the garment again to check it worked ok. It seems to be fine, I need to insert the zip and have a fit.
From this, I amended the pattern by adding 1cm either side from the hip line and re-shaping the seam. I then made a toile of the lower half (effectively the lining) to see what the fit was like. This fit was much better.
From this fit, I made the rest of the garment again to check it worked ok. It seems to be fine, I need to insert the zip and have a fit.
Friday, March 5, 2010
Thursday 4th March
Today was a very long and stessful day.
I began by beginning my third toile for the jacket on outfit four whilst waiting for my tutor to come and advise me on outfit 3.
When my tutor arrived we assessed my playsuit and decided it would be beneficial for me to line the suit fully. So after recieving some direction, I lined the suit. When lined, I had a fitting with one of my colleagues. The fit was perfect, however upon showing my other tutor, she reminded me that the models will be around 5'11" rather than the shorter girl I was using so advised that I add in 5inches to the waist line and redraft the pattern. After trying the playsuit on a girl closer to the height of the model I will be using it became apparent how right she was. See below.
I redrafted the pattern and made a very basic toile to check the amendements.
From this toile, I decided the length was perfect, as was the fit however my tutor did not like the flared nature of the leg so I redrafted the pattern and am now in the process of making my fourth toile.
I began by beginning my third toile for the jacket on outfit four whilst waiting for my tutor to come and advise me on outfit 3.
When my tutor arrived we assessed my playsuit and decided it would be beneficial for me to line the suit fully. So after recieving some direction, I lined the suit. When lined, I had a fitting with one of my colleagues. The fit was perfect, however upon showing my other tutor, she reminded me that the models will be around 5'11" rather than the shorter girl I was using so advised that I add in 5inches to the waist line and redraft the pattern. After trying the playsuit on a girl closer to the height of the model I will be using it became apparent how right she was. See below.
I redrafted the pattern and made a very basic toile to check the amendements.
From this toile, I decided the length was perfect, as was the fit however my tutor did not like the flared nature of the leg so I redrafted the pattern and am now in the process of making my fourth toile.
Wednesday 3rd March
After re-assessing my current point of manufacturing my garments, I realised that I am further behind than I need to be and became concerned that this might become problematic down the line. As a result I had a tutorial with my course leader to come up with an action plan.
The outcome of the meeting was that I need to ask for help and guidance from my tutors and the technicians to ensure that I am able to get back on target, rather than working off my own back and my own initiative and to use their experience and expertise.
I worked on redoing my designs with more appropriate figures to make them more appealing and aesthetically appealing.
You can see my updated designs below.
These are still not my final complete designs but they are progressing nicely.
The outcome of the meeting was that I need to ask for help and guidance from my tutors and the technicians to ensure that I am able to get back on target, rather than working off my own back and my own initiative and to use their experience and expertise.
I worked on redoing my designs with more appropriate figures to make them more appealing and aesthetically appealing.
You can see my updated designs below.
These are still not my final complete designs but they are progressing nicely.
Tuesday 2nd March
This evening I spent a couple of hours pinning adjustments to my tailored jacket on outfit 4 and readjusting the pattern ready for me to make a third toile for it.
Monday 1st March
This week I am mainly focusing on outfit 2 which is the playsuit. I made my first toile which was too tight around the leg area.
Following amending the patterns I made the second toile and the fit was spot on.
Following amending the patterns I made the second toile and the fit was spot on.
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